The it-bangle battle: Can the Tiffany Lock challenge the Cartier Love? - Vogue Business

3 months ago 40

At Bulgari, which is also owned by LVMH, bracelets have been an area of focus in the last few years, says Bulgari jewellery managing director Roberto di Mauro. “In the jewellery business, you must look at the different product families and try to maximise all of them. There are moments when you need to reinforce your position in one sector of the business,” he says, referring to bracelets and adding that the category’s sales have doubled in value in the past five years.

Viper is the second bangle design introduced by Bulgari after B.Zero1 (from £5,900), and it’s already outselling its predecessor, says di Mauro. The snake design, which is a house motif featured on handbags and in branding, is a hit, di Mauro says, including among men. All of Bulgari jewellery is unisex.

De Beers’s RVL collection.

Photo: De Beers

De Beers’s RVL collection broadens the brand’s accessible price points, reaching a new male customer and furthering its more design-driven and less diamond-dependent products, says CEO Céline Assimon. “This is indeed a new territory for us. We have only just launched the collection, and already, it is performing very well. We are reaching a new audience but also speaking to our existing clientele, particularly men, who have been asking for bold De Beers pieces they could wear,” she says.

Competing with the Cartier Love

HSBC’s Rambourg estimates that the Love franchise (i.e. all product categories featuring the Love design) could be worth as much as €1 billion. Cartier declined to comment. Richemont, which owns Cartier, does not break out revenue by brand, but Rambourg estimates that annual revenues exceeded €8 billion as of March 2022.

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